I've just returned from a now-traditional dinner party devoted to cassoulet. My seat-mate tonight reminded me that last year, the one where we met, I breezed in, "in a silk dress, and a fur" –– and a turban, I added –– "with an enormous box of macarons just before anyone had heard of them, and a car waiting outside." This year reminded me of a line from Dariaux's Entertaining with Elegance, about the hostess who gives one party so extraordinary that she dines out on it the rest of the year. While our lady of this evening is known for her regular sparkling affairs, the round of armagnac introduced by the Times "Drink" columnist, who wrote her column this week on the same subject, made the best one yet.
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