I was in Amsterdam in 2005, my first trip to Europe alone, after having been given a ticket to anywhere in the world as a gift (I chose Antwerp, and I was on the way), when I stopped in an exhibition to gaze in wonder at a drawing by Schiele of the harbor. It's not so much, certainly no more than it sounds, but I thought, Trieste, I should go. Over the years, whether at dinner in Tribeca, or daydreaming of "port cities of faded grandeur," or at yet another exhibition, the thought has never really slipped my mind. Now the New York Times has published an extraordinary piece, "Elegy on the Adriatic," confirming and expanding every idea I ever had about the place. I would love to return to Croatia, and wander up the coast, with the summer ferries and boats between the islands, no thought of time; eventually, Trieste.